Tuesday, July 13, 2010

The Green Machine

I haven't been surfing for very long, five years and a day or two. I started with an eight and a half foot Johnny Rice longboard that Amanda and I shared. It wasn't too long before I ended up breaking it in half on a big day at Sloat Street, Ocean Beach. Since then I've had a bunch of boards, some I liked and some that didn't quite fit me. Since I hope to spend a fair amount of time surfing some deserted waves in the next year, I wanted to get myself a perfect board.
I'd seen some boards that caught my eye at 2 Mile with a Mystic logo, and had met the shaper, John Moore a few times before. We chatted a bit and I said the hell with it, lets do this, lets make something for me, a board that is exactly what I want.
I'd had this really great JD Rockets board, 7'3" an orange pintail that was nice and wide and fat. It helped me get a lot of bigger waves and I definitely became a better surfer on it. John was able to get the dimensions for that board and we mixed it into a couple other designs I liked. A few hundred bucks, a trip to OSH to pick out a color (freakin' jungle green) and wham, bam, shiny new ride. John was awesome about everything, he understood what I wanted and was totally able to turn it into a board.

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