Wind, Finally.

Today we had good sailing. The effect on both of our attitudes cannot be overstated. We’re giddy with the giddy-up. Before today, we had been motoring at least a third of the time, and the rest has been just with very light wind, which results in a bumpy, go-nowhere kind of ride. But today, at long last (have we really only been out here a week?) we had wind. Glorious wind. We sailed downwind at 4to5to6 knots for much of the day which felt like we were at light speed, practically. I mean, on a sailing scale.
In other news, the wildlife viewing has been outstanding. So far, we’ve seen about a million whales. Seriously. I had one stalk me for at least an hour last night. It was rather unnerving, as the night was the darkest, maybe ever. Really, really dark. Except for the fact that every so often, we would go through a patch in the ocean that was teeming with bioluminescence. It felt like driving a spaceship. There were no stars in the sky, but boy were there ever some in the sea. I honestly have never felt so apart from the human world. So I was out there, on watch, alone, with a whale sort of stalking me. And out of nowhere, there come huge long undulating streaks of glowing water, straight at the boat. It wasn’t until they’d popped up on the other side and took breaths that I realized that it was a few dolphins, swerving and flying though the water. I yelled for Chris to come out, which he did, armed with our giant spotlight. He immediately caught one mid-leap, in the air. Like at SeaWorld, only sort of glowing in the dark, in the middle of the ocean. Wow.
And, although it doesn’t seem quite as otherworldly, we had another amazing spotting when we saw a sea turtle, I think a leatherback. He was just chillin’, partially submerged. When we came by, he lifted his big old head out of the water for a look-see. I think we got too close on our second turn around, because he dove to the depths and out of sight. I looooovvve sea turtles. They are just so hulking but somehow incredibly graceful. My one demand of this trip was to see a sea turtle, so missions accomplished, now I just get to sit back and enjoy the ride.
Tonight we are anchored out in San Simeon in a very picturesque little cove, with two other ketches. It’s a ketch party. Woo hoo.